When did buffet become the primary fare of Indian restaurants? I think it must have been in the 1980's. That's when I first discovered the joys of Indian food. Suddenly, most of my favorite Indian restaurants started serving lunch buffets, as if they had all received a memo at once. For me this was, and is, a mixed blessing.

Indian food isn't cheap. A buffet is an inexpensive way to eat a whole bunch of Indian food. For those who aren't familiar with Indian cuisine, the buffet is a great introduction. The problem is most Indian buffets don't include my favorite Indian dish. I am always torn between the economy and plentitude of the buffet and my desire for malai kofta.

One of my biggest complaints with downtown West Palm Beach is that, despite the fact it is pretty much nothing but restaurants, there are no Indian restaurants. You have to leave downtown to get to any one of the four Indian restaurants in Greater West Palm Beach.

My favorite local Indian restaurant is Taste of India on Okeechobee near Golden Lakes. I have been there for buffet twice, so I can't tell you how the malai kofta is. What I can tell you is this. The service and atmosphere are terrific, and the buffet is extensive and delicious. Where you are vegetarian or want to eat curried goat, you will find plenty of fresh, perfectly spiced, delicious Indian fare.

I've had a look at the menu, which is also extensive. Even a person who is unsure about Indian food can find plenty to enjoy at Taste of India.