E.R. Bradley's Saloon is still a West Palm Beach Treasure

It’s strange that I am just getting around to reviewing E.F. Bradley’s Saloon in downtown West Palm Beach; I’ve eaten there more times than I can count. Bradley’s is such an institution in West Palm Beach that it almost feels that it doesn’t need a review because everyone already has an opinion.

When I lived in downtown WPB, I often enjoyed Sunday brunch at Bradley’s. I had never been there at any other time of day until recently. A Facebook tarot friend, Jenna Matlin, was coming to town, and I would get to meet her in person for the first time, with a few other friends. Where should we meet? She was coming from the cold northeast, so I wanted her to catch our South Florida vibe. E.F. Bradley’s was the perfect choice.

We ate outside, with a view of the water, entertained by the birds, lizards and even a turtle. There were four of us at the table, laughing, reading tarot cards and sharing stories. We didn’t even look at the menus for the first twenty minutes, but our waitress, Piper, was patient with us for our entire two-drink, three-hour lunch.

When we did finally crack open the menu, I was thrilled with the variety of choices. This is a place you can bring all your friends, whether paleo, gluten-free, vegetarian or vegan.

The food itself was fabulous. I took a risk and ordered the Tuna Tartare, with mango, avocado and plantain chips. It was beautiful to behold and even better to eat. My daughter is a connoisseur of South Florida fish tacos (it’s a thing) and loves the Baja Fish Tacos at Bradley’s.

Jenna was pleased that the fried pickles were chips and not spears. They were indeed a guilty pleasure!

E.F. Bradley’s is a saloon. This may not be the best place to bring your grandparents, a business meeting, or a first date, depending on the time of day and the tone you want to set.

For my special lunch event, the menu, food, location and service at Bradley’s couldn’t be beat. It was West Palm Beach at its finest, without a heavy price tag.

They offer valet parking as well. I forgot this fact and fed the meters. One of our group got a parking ticket. Learn from our mistake and valet your car, but don’t let the hassle of coming downtown keep you from this iconic West Palm Beach treasure.

Jenna carefully explained the importance of the shape of fried pickles to Piper.

Jenna approves of these pickles.

Finally Falafel in West Palm Beach

Some of you know of my ongoing search for the perfect falafel. After expressing my disappointment in several West Palm Beach Middle Eastern restaurants I learned that different cultures make and serve falafel differently. So, to be clear, here is my falafel litmus.

I am searching for falafel that is as good as what I remember from Mamoun’s Falafel Restaurant in New Haven, CT, circa 1987. With locations in New York and New Jersey as well, Mamoun’s is still going strong, thank goodness.

But I want a Mamoun’s-style falafel in South Florida.

This is where I should probably insert a disclaimer.

Mamoun’s falafel, and other Middle Eastern delicacies, were best enjoyed late at night, after the bars closed, when Mamoun’s was the only restaurant open. Back then you could get a falafel for the few dollars you hadn’t spent on drinks at Toad’s Place. The Middle Eastern music, the Persian rugs and shiny brass and copper décor all added to the flavor, and the experience.

Even so, not everyone enjoyed Mamoun’s. Some of my friends called their falafel “feel-awful,”
 perhaps sometimes with good reason.

But still, in my memory, an entire era of my life smells and tastes like Mamoun’s falafel. 20 years and a thousand miles away, I long for that distinct experience.

The last time I was on Clematis Street in West Palm Beach I noticed that Yankee Dog was gone. I wasn’t surprised. I liked Yankee Dog. The thing was, they advertised an extensive menu and round-the-clock service, and ended up serving a limited menu during unpredictable open hours.

Where Yankee Dog once was, on the corner of Clematis and Rosemary, is now “Keese’s Simply Delicious.” Folks from Fort Lauderdale might know Keese’s first location in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea.

Unlike most places on Clematis, Keese’s doesn’t offer a classy dining room. You can eat at the window counter or on the outdoor tables, or you can take your food to go.

The menu is varied, offering American grill, salads, and Mediterranean and seafood dishes. The Mediterranean options include kafta, shawarma, hummus, babaghanouj, grape leaves and, of course, falafel.

Falafel is available as an appetizer, a dinner plate, a salad and a pita sandwich. After much deliberation, I chose the pita sandwich, and a side of grape leaves.

The falafel pita is made with lettuce, tomato, hummus and tahini. I was impressed with the fresh veggies and the generous portions. I was prepared to be disappointed in the falafel itself, but was pleasantly surprised.

The falafel at Keese’s is delicious. My search for great falafel in West Palm Beach has finally come to a happy conclusion.

My dining companions enjoyed the chicken shawarma and the lemon avocado salad.

Whether you want healthy veggie options or a great burger, or if you are like me and in search of the perfect falafel, Keese’s has everything you need.

_{Illustration: Golden Falafel Balls on a Plate, Creative Commons, by yummyporky.}

Grease is the Word

I am not a huge fan of the Standard American Diet (SAD for short).  One of its mainstays, the burger, has always mystified me.  I just don’t get it.  Out of all possibilities, a burger is the last thing I am likely to order in a restaurant. 

So when Grease opened on Clematis Street, I wasn’t interested.  Grease is an upscale restaurant and bar that is dedicated almost solely to the burger.  The name bothered me, too.  Honestly, food that is greasy is the opposite of good.

But, since I have friends who like burgers, I have been to Grease a few times since it opened.  In fact, I was there just last week.  There are a few non-burger items on the menu, but each time I have been there I’ve gone with the signature product – the burger.

It turns out that a good burger is a great thing.  Eating at Grease has taught me this.  On the menu are a few specialty burgers, and the opportunity to craft your own burger with the toppings of your choice.

Although I am also not a fan of fries, onion rings are another matter entirely.  The onion rings at Grease are wonderful, although last week they were sadly a little greasier than usual.

Grease has a fully stocked bar, friendly staff and a great atmosphere.  It is perfect place to meet friends after work, or to sit at the bar and watch a game.  Its dark lighting makes it romantic, but I wouldn’t choose it for a first date because the burgers are too big and juicy to eat neatly.

Grease is not a place to “grab a quick burger.”  Grease is a place to savor and appreciate the American institution that is the burger.

Asian Explosion on Clematis Street

Everyone knows that Clematis Street in West Palm Beach offers a variety of dining options.  In other words, those on diets should just stay away – there is nothing for you here.  Recently, two Asian restaurants have opened – Kabuki and Palm Sugar, and a third, Fuku, will open soon.

I love Asian food – or at least, I love the American version of Asian food.  I am smart enough to know there is a huge difference between the two.

Kabuki is right next to Don Ramon.  It does a great lunch and happy hour business.  Its ratings online are high – most people give it five stars.

Kabuki serves sushi  and Thai food.  Its prices and specials are good.

My friends and I enjoyed our sushi and Thai lunch combos very much.  The service was somewhat haphazard during the busy lunch hour.  However, one of the four of us had some unpleasant after-effects from the meal.  Perhaps the tendency for haphazard service had spilled into the kitchen as well.

Recently, we learned that Kabuki has been cited with no less than fourteen health code violations, many of them critical.  Probably those with weak stomachs should consider avoiding this one in the future.

Palm Sugar has opened more recently.  It’s on the corner of Clematis and Dixie.  You would think that would be a great location for a restaurant, but its predecessor, Bahama Mama, didn’t last very long.  My friends and I noticed a lot of street noise that disturbed the vibe – perhaps that was part of the problem.

Palm Sugar is an Asian Grill and Dessert Bar.  Hallelujah!  The only problem with Asian restaurants is they seem clueless about dessert.  Palm Sugar wants to rectify that.

My friends and I took them at their word and stopped by for drinks and dessert one evening.  The atmosphere is a little schizophrenic, with the words “Palm Sugar” in an irritating red tag cloud all over the walls and the traffic noise a stark contrast to the classy lighting, music and wood furnishings.

The dessert selection was interesting.  The best of the bunch seemed to be a soft cheesecake parfait, complete with fresh fruit at the bottom, and a chocolate cookie, strawberry and mint garnish.  There was also crème brulee in three flavors.  That’s interesting, except two of those three flavors were weirdly tea-based.  There was a nice selection of cupcakes, but most of the chocolate ones were polluted with nuts, coffee and green tea. 

The presentation of the desserts was fabulous, and the dessert wine selection was wonderful and affordable.

The dinner menu seemed to be primarily noodle dishes.  I’m not in a hurry to try them, but I am in a hurry to get back there for another glass of Muscadel.  I know my priorities.

When Fuku opens, I will be first in line to try it out.  I have to say that Palm Sugar and Kabuki have not set a very high bar for Fuku to beat to become the very best Asian restaurant on Clematis Street.

Reef Road Rum Bar: The Flavor of South Florida

I have had the pleasure of dining at Reef Road on Clematis Street on two occasions, the most recent being just last week.  I really enjoyed myself both times.

In preparing to write this review, I checked out other reviews of Reef Road, and found that, on one review site, the restaurant had received only one measly star out of a possible five.

The complaints included poor service, pricey food and small portions.  I asked my dining partner if he thought there was any merit to these complaints, and he agreed with me that, in our experience, there was not.  We thought Reef Road provided a lovely evening out, and we both look forward to returning.

Reef Road offers musical entertainment on some nights – the night we were there, they played recorded reggae.  That got me off to a great start.

The décor is terrific, very appropriate for a rum bar in South Florida.  they offered a special on a dark spiced rum called “Sailor Jerry.”  Sailor Jerry is ninety-two proof and delicious with pineapple juice.

For many years, I had been on the search for the perfect spinach and artichoke dip.  I always ordered it as an appetizer in every restaurant I visited.  I fantasized about writing a book solely about the many different spinach and artichoke dips I had encountered throughout the United States, and the journey that brought me to them.

What really happened was I gained enough weight to decide that wasn’t a particularly smart Holy Grail for me.

Had I continued my search, it would have ended last week at Reef Road.  I really believe their spinach and artichoke dip to be definitive, quintessential, the best ever. 

For a main course, my friend had blackened chicken, while I had linguini with white clam sauce.  Both of us were very pleased with the portions and presentation.  The blackened chicken came with plantains and coconut rice.  The linguini came with clams still in the shell.

While I am leery of the poor reviews on-line, I would still recommend Reef Road as a great place for a casual-but-special meal with real South Florida flavor.

But who am I to say?  They had me at five-dollar rum and reggae.

A Fun Time at the Wine Dive

Last week my friend Lisa came to town.  Lisa is a die-hard Bostonian.  Each time she visits I lobby her to move to South Florida, but no dice.  It’s probably a good thing – if she lived here she would be my best friend and neither of us would ever get any work done.

So Lisa and I had one chance to have dinner together.  Lisa is a restaurant connoisseur; in fact I think her middle name is Zagat.  We spent all afternoon touring West Palm Beach and deciding which downtown restaurant would fit the bill for our special night.

We settled on two possibilities, right next to each other on world-famous Clematis Street.  We would either go to one of my regular haunts, Don Ramon, or its new next door neighbor, Kabuki.

On the way there, though, we walked past  Wine Dive, and were drawn in by its unique vibe.  We sat at a high-top table in front, so we were in the shelter of the restaurant and dining alfresco at the same time.  Ah, the beauty of South Florida in the winter!

We loved the atmosphere, and the interesting menu, which featured exotic martinis made with pear juice and lychee and food choices like wild boar and rabbit.  Of course, the wine list was extensive, and the tapas menu was varied.  I was excited to see my favorite offering, falafel, on the menu.  Joy!  I was going to have a contestant on my search for the perfect falafel.

We ordered our martinis and got into the serious business of choosing our food.  I let Lisa steer – she is the consummate expert.

Our server, who was friendly and adorable, came back to tell us they were out of the ingredients needed to make our martinis, and to make any of the exotic martinis, other than the chocolate one.  Neither of us wanted a chocolate martini before dinner.  We both agree that chocolate martinis, though wonderful, are dessert drinks.

Well, we decided that since the place was called Wine Dive, maybe we better order wine.  I have to admit, the wine was lovely.

We ordered an assortment of tapas to share.  From column A we ordered four-cheese flatbread with truffles, from column B a “warm dive salad” and from column C my beloved falafel and some tuna tacos.

Our server told us they were out of the rabbit, which we didn’t care about.  He also thought they might be out of the ingredients for our salad, and they were definitely out of my falafel.  Oh no!  So of the things we ordered, at least half of them were not available.  That’s weird, right?

As it turned out, our salad was available, and was delicious.  We also got the lobster mac and cheese, which was to die for.

As our meal went on, we found that everything was mighty tasty, plentiful enough, and fun to share.  The background music was perfect, and the food presentation was divine.  Had our server not disappeared for most of our meal we probably would have drunk some more wine.

My friend Lisa would make a meal at McDonalds a fun and classic experience, so it is probably hard to give a fair review to the restaurant itself, but here goes.

Wine Dive gets an A for atmosphere and food quality and a D for food availability and service.  With all the great choices available on Clematis, unless you are willing to spin the wheel and maybe get what you want, or unless you have a hankering for wild boar, you might want to think twice before bringing a first date or a business associate there.  For an evening out with a great adventurous friend, I recommend it.

Dining Downtown- Grimaldi’s a Winner, Luna Lounge a Loser

Since I live and work in downtown West Palm Beach, I have at my doorstep some of the best restaurants ever.

I haven’t tried all of them yet, but I plan too.

For an evening meal, there are a number of possibilities, in a number of price ranges.

Recently, a friend and I tried the new Grimaldi’s pizza at the end of Clematis, near the waterfront.

Although we are both from the Northeast, neither of us had been to a Grimaldi’s, which has locations throughout New York and New Jersey.

I have to admit, I am a pizza snob – I’m from New York and New Haven, two cities known for great pizza.  It takes a lot to impress me, but Grimaldi’s absolutely did.

The atmosphere is classic Italian restaurant ala Billy Joel, with red-checkered table clothes and wine bottle lamps.  The service was impeccable, and the food was divine.  From the plentiful salad to the personal pizzas and the sinful cannoli for dessert, I was in complete restaurant heaven.  The meal was affordable, and the view of the water magnificent.

Grimaldi’s is a fine place to bring your friends, your parents, your kids or your date.  I will definitely be back.

Last night, that same friend and I decided on a place I have been eager to try since they opened, Luna Lounge on Clematis.

Luna Lounge advertises its offerings as Turkish cuisine.  Well, I’ve never been to Turkey, but I worked at Mamoun’s Falafel Restaurant in New Haven, and I grew up in the Greek section of Long Island, so I have a sense of some of the region’s delicacies.

When my friend and I walked in, the staff pointedly ignored us, although we were not dressed any differently than some of the diners already there, and the restaurant was not busy.

Finally, the girl who was functioning as both hostess and server came and greeted us in the most unusual way.  She said, “How can I help you?”

How can I help you?  What a strange way to greet guests in a restaurant at dinnertime!  Do you suppose we might be there for… dinner?

When we asked to be seated for dinner, she ignored the fact that there were many empty tables in the dining room, and sat us at an uncomfortable table in the bar.

She had to be prompted to tell us the evening specials.

Even before we had our first bite, we knew we would not want to return.  No matter how good the food might be, no one wants to pay money to be treated like crap.

As it turned out, the food really was quite good.  The arugula salad was magnificent, although the server did not know how to pronounce “arugula.”

I am on a continuous search for falafel that might rival the amazing falafel of Mamoun’s in New Haven and New York.  I have to admit, the falafel at Luna Lounge is interesting – different than any I have had before, and quite delicious.  But, my search continues.

Overall, the atmosphere at Luna Lounge is nice, the food is good, if pricy, but the lousy service left nothing but a bad taste in my mouth.  I won’t be back.